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Milan's festival year starts with free piano concerts in courtyards in May, moves outdoors to the Idroscalo and the racecourses by San Siro for the summer, and ends indoors with jazz and new music in the autumn.
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The season opens in mid-May with Piano City Milano, a weekend when pianos turn up in more than a hundred places across the city: museum gardens, private courtyards, theatres, tram depots and living rooms opened to the public. Most concerts are free and first come, first served, and the programme runs from classical to jazz, film scores and improvisation. A week or so later, MI AMI takes over the Idroscalo and Circolo Magnolia on the city's eastern edge, next to Linate airport. It is the festival of Italian indie, rap and songwriting, with several stages under the trees, sets until one in the morning and afterparties inside Magnolia that go on well past that.
Summer is when the big names arrive. I-Days is not a single weekend but a run of large concerts from late June into the summer, with the main shows at the Ippodromo SNAI La Maura on via Lampugnano, a flat former racecourse in the San Siro district that holds tens of thousands per night. Each date has its own headliner, from rock to pop and hip-hop. In the centre, Estate al Castello fills the Cortile delle Armi of the Castello Sforzesco from June to early September with Italian songwriters, bands, orchestras and tribute nights, plus open-air cinema in August, at modest ticket prices and with a few free evenings.
When the city comes back from August, the music moves inside. JazzMi runs for about three weeks from late October into November, based at Triennale Milano and the Blue Note but spreading to theatres, the Conservatorio and smaller rooms across town. In November, Milano Music Week brings concerts, talks and showcases to venues all over the city, and inside it Linecheck mixes a daytime industry meeting with evening club and experimental shows at BASE Milano in the Tortona area. A few tips: for La Maura, take the M1 to Lampugnano and plan the ride back, as queues build at close; for MI AMI, check the shuttle and bus options, since the Idroscalo is outside the metro network; and in July, bring water and patience, because Milan in high summer is hot and still.
It starts in May with Piano City Milano and MI AMI, peaks from late June through the summer with I-Days and Estate al Castello, and returns in autumn with JazzMi in late October and November and Milano Music Week with Linecheck in November. Mood lists what is on sale right now.
The main I-Days concerts are at the Ippodromo SNAI La Maura on via Lampugnano, in the San Siro district. The closest metro stop is Lampugnano on the M1 line, and extra shuttles run on concert nights. Check Mood for the current dates and tickets.
Most of them are. Concerts are usually free and open on a first come, first served basis, though some special events need a booking. Popular courtyard and garden concerts fill up early, so arrive ahead of time. See Mood for the current listings.
It is on the eastern edge of the city, at the Idroscalo and Circolo Magnolia near Linate airport, just across the municipal line in Segrate. It is not on the metro, so plan a bus, shuttle or taxi. Tickets and dates are on Mood when on sale.