In August every road on Astypalea ends up in Chora: three days around the Dormition at the monastery of Panagia Portaitissa, with violins, the local sousta dance and lambriano on the table.
Panigiria · Astypalea
May - September
Panigiria run from May to September, and the season peaks at Dekapentavgoustos - the Dormition, on 15 August - when most villages hold their feast. Each programme is set close to its own saint's day, so the list fills late and empties out of season.
Panagia Portaitissa, the monastery founded in 1762 by Saint Anthimos the Blind, is the heart of the island. The feast of the Dormition runs from August 14 to 16. On the eve, after vespers, the dancing starts in the church courtyard known as the Rodia: violins and island instruments, young people in local costume, and the Astypalean sousta going until daybreak. On the day itself the island's women cook and share out lambriano, Astypalea's festive dish - lamb or kid stuffed with rice, offal and spices and slow-cooked in a wood oven. Plenty of Astypaleans living in Athens or abroad plan their summer leave around exactly these days.
On August 16 the celebration moves down to Pera Gialos, the beach below Chora, for the koukania - old-style sea games. There are swimming races, tug of war, blindfolded yoghurt feeding, and the event that fills the waterfront: a greased pole over the water with a prize hanging from its tip. Most contestants end up in the sea, which is half the fun.
Portaitissa is not the only date. Through the summer there are feasts for Prophet Elias in July, Saint Panteleimon and the Transfiguration at Livadia, Saint John at the end of August, and the Nativity of the Virgin in September at the chapels of Vathy. In early September the Portaitissa icon is carried through Chora with the relics of Saint Anthimos, and on February 2 the chapel of Panagia Flevariotissa keeps a feast going in the middle of winter. The format stays the same everywhere: food, traditional music and dancing.
From August 14 to 16, peaking on the night of the eve after vespers, with lambriano served on the feast day and the koukania sea games at Pera Gialos the day after. See the current calendar on Mood.
Astypalea's festive dish: lamb or kid stuffed with rice, offal and spices, slow-cooked in a wood oven. At the Portaitissa feast it is cooked by the island's women and shared with everyone who comes.
Yes - Prophet Elias and Saint Panteleimon in July, the Transfiguration in August, the Nativity of the Virgin in September at Vathy and Panagia Flevariotissa on February 2. The nights currently on the programme are listed on Mood.
