On Milos summer does not end on August 15. The Virgin's feasts run on until September 8, when Plaka celebrates the Korfiatissa high above the bay.
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May - September
Panigiria run from May to September, and the season peaks at Dekapentavgoustos - the Dormition, on 15 August - when most villages hold their feast. Each programme is set close to its own saint's day, so the list fills late and empties out of season.
From late June to mid-September almost every week some chapel or village keeps its saint's day. Agia Marina and Profitis Ilias in July, Agia Paraskevi in Pollonia, August 15 in Adamas, Agios Fanourios in Pollonia in late August. On August 22, within the nine days of the Assumption, two celebrate together: Panagia Faneromeni in Trypiti and Panagia Giatrissa in Komia. The shape is the familiar Cycladic one: vespers on the eve, tables in the churchyard or the square, meze and local Milos wine, and island music with syrtos and balos dances until dawn.
Two nights have a character of their own. On August 31, in the square of Trypiti, the bonfires of 'Kyriavgoustos' are lit: big fires go up just before sunset, and whoever dares to jump over them, the saying goes, will not catch a cold all winter - a feast follows. And on September 8, the Nativity of the Virgin, Plaka celebrates Panagia Korfiatissa, the church at the edge of the Chora looking over the whole bay. The icon is carried through the lanes and the dancing lasts until morning - in effect the island's farewell to summer.
Milos has another big day at Easter: on Sunday an effigy of Judas is burned and neighbourhoods trade blasts of gunpowder, a custom the island keeps with pride. At the table the island has its own kitchen: the dry cheese aged in caves, ladenia flatbread with onion and tomato, a thin watermelon pie topped with sesame, and koufeto, a spoon sweet of white squash, honey and almonds traditionally served at weddings.
On September 8, the feast of Panagia Korfiatissa, with vespers on the evening of the 7th. The icon is carried through the lanes of Plaka and the dancing goes on until morning. Check Mood for the current calendar.
A custom in the square of Trypiti: large fires are lit just before sunset and the brave jump over them so as not to catch cold in winter. A village feast follows.
August 15 in Adamas, Panagia Faneromeni in Trypiti and Panagia Giatrissa in Komia on August 22, Agios Fanourios in Pollonia, and the Trypiti bonfires on August 31. The full programme is on Mood.
