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Panigiria Near
On Lesvos a panigiri smells of keskek simmering all night in cauldrons and sounds like violin and santouri giving way to brass. From Mytilene, the island's great feasts are all a few hours away - or one night's walk.
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May - September
Panigiria run from May to September, and the season peaks at Dekapentavgoustos - the Dormition, on 15 August - when most villages hold their feast. Each programme is set close to its own saint's day, so the list fills late and empties out of season.
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Panigiria Near Mytilene
The Tavros ("Bull") festival at Agia Paraskevi is one of the largest on Lesvos. It honours Saint Charalambos, whose day falls on February 10, but for practical reasons the feast has been moved to late spring or early summer and runs for four days. The village's Agricultural Society has organised it since 1915: people go up to the chapel of Agios Charalambos on the Tavros hill, the bull is slaughtered and keskek - wheat slow-cooked with meat - is prepared and shared with everyone. Then come riders on decorated horses, horse races and music from Lesvos bands in the square and the coffee houses.
The Taxiarchis (Archangel Michael) of Mantamados is celebrated twice a year: on November 8 and on the Sunday of the Myrrh-bearers, two Sundays after Orthodox Easter, which is the main feast. Tens of thousands of pilgrims arrive from all over Greece, some on foot or, by tradition, on horseback, carrying tall candles and small metal shoes for the Archangel, who is said to wear his out running to help people. From Saturday evening keskek boils in huge cauldrons, and after the liturgy and the procession, with music and dancing, it is handed out to the faithful. On August 15 it is the turn of Agiasos, on the slopes of Mount Olympos: thousands walk through the night from Mytilene and the villages to venerate the icon of the Virgin, stopping at Karini under its old plane trees, and the village hums until morning.
The music of Lesvos feasts is built on violin and santouri (hammered dulcimer), with clarinet, trombone, euphonium, cornet and drum joining the bands from the late 19th century. The dances still keep an order: they open with a syrtos that turns into a ballos, then come karsilamas and zeibekiko, and the night always closes with a fast dance, the mazomeno or pidichto. In winter Agiasos also has its satirical carnival, with rhymed satire and floats on the last Sunday of Carnival.
Common questions
When is the Tavros bull festival at Agia Paraskevi on Lesvos?+
It is dedicated to Saint Charalambos (February 10) but held in late spring or early summer over four days, with keskek, decorated horses and horse races. The exact date changes each year - check the current calendar on Mood.
When is the Mantamados Taxiarchis feast?+
Twice a year: on November 8 and on the Sunday of the Myrrh-bearers, two Sundays after Orthodox Easter, which draws tens of thousands of pilgrims and ends with keskek shared after the liturgy.
What happens in Agiasos on August 15?+
Thousands of pilgrims walk through the night of the eve from Mytilene and the villages to venerate the icon of the Virgin, and the village fills with people, stalls and music until morning. See the current panigiria on Lesvos on Mood.